Dyno Appointment Preparation Checklist

Dyno Session Checklist

PLEASE NOTE: The quality of your calibration often directly correlates to your preparedness to be calibrated. Not all checklist requirements apply to every vehicle. If you have questions about anything on this list, PLEASE EMAIL ahead of time, and we will be happy to clarify.

1.) Wheel keys/lugnuts/wheel spacers

First and foremost, we use a DynaPack Evolution 3000 model dynamometer. It is a user-definable load-bearing dyno. In the name of consistency, safety, and sensitivity, the DynaPack removes the drive wheels from the equation and bolts directly to your hubs. So, in order for us to dyno test your car, we must remove the two drive wheels, and attach our hub adapters to the DynaPack's 'pods.' What does this mean? If you have aftermarket wheels and use lug nuts that require a special removal key, BRING THE TOOL WITH YOU. If we cannot remove your wheels, we cannot dyno test/calibrate your car! VERY IMPORTANT. If you have bolt-on wheel spacers, please remove them entirely unless they are absolutely required for wheel fitment over larger brakes. Dealing with bolt-on spacers greatly impacts setup/teardown time. If the spacer cannot be removed easily, the session cannot occur, your deposit will be absorbed, and you will be sent home.

2.) Fluids

Before your scheduled appointment, be sure that all fluids are at their respective full levels, and in good condition. If it's been a while since your last oil change, you may want to consider changing it before you come for your calibrate. Coolant should be free of as much contaminants/corrosion as possible- a car that has a coolant system problem is no fun for power, AND the life of your engine. PLEASE make sure your coolant system is free of all airlocks before your appointment. Under fluids, let's talk about leaks. Please, please, PLEASE make sure the oil/coolant leaks are to an absolute MINIMUM before you arrive. We try to keep the dyno areas clean! Any cleaning of the floor after the dyno session is complete will result in a $100 clean-up fee.

3.) Check Engine Lights

Please make sure your car is not throwing any diagnostic codes. There are a few exceptions to this rule, but please use our contact form for more details on what options you have. If you cannot track down and eliminate a code, let us know well in advance before your appointment in the event you need to reschedule.

4.) Fuel supply systems

Making lots of power requires LOTS of fuel. With the late popularity in ethanol fuels, fuel systems need to be bigger than ever. Please consult us through the contact form if you have questions regarding what you may need in order to reach your goals safely and reliably.

5.) Spark Plugs

It's wise to install a new set of plugs shortly before your appointment, gapped to the correct specification and in the proper heat range for the setup. Spark plug heat range and gap is very important! If you have questions regarding what plug / gap to use for your application, don't hesitate to ask in advance. It's better to ask in advance than to arrive with old, incorrectly gapped plugs inside the engine and have to buy new ones/have us gap and replace here for a significant rate.

6.) Wiring

Please sort out all wiring gremlins before your appointment.

7.) Injector connectors/wiring

A popular part we see on a lot of cars these days are 'plug-and-play' injector connector adapters that provide an easy way to convert your OEM injectors to aftermarket counterparts with a different wiring connector. Beware! The majority of these adapters are made very poorly, and allow for intermittent connections. An intermittent injector connection can spell disaster VERY quickly. Because of this, we recommend you SOLDER all injector connections to your harness directly, and delete these adapters. Losing injector connection at wide open throttle will melt parts!

8.) Timing covers on B-Series / D-Series Honda engines

If you are having a Honda B or D-Series engine calibrated, DO NOT REMOVE THE LOWERING TIMING COVER. The timing cover has a line cast into the plastic that allows for easy synchronization of the distributor with the ECU, and keeps the belt safe from damage.

9.) Crankshaft pulley choice

Your crankshaft pulley is more than an accessory drive; it acts as a damper for harmonic vibrations through the crankshaft. Most aftermarket "racing" or "lightweight" pulleys do NOT have a damping property, and can spell disaster very quickly for your oil pump (if it's driven directly by the crankshaft). The only aftermarket crankshaft pulleys we recommend are from Fluidampr and ATI. DO NOT USE A "Civic Type R N1" PULLEY on your B-Series. For most applications, the OEM harmonic balancer crankshaft pulley is perfect.

10.) Exhaust

Ensure there are no exhaust leaks, especially before a lambda sensor. The wideband oxygen sensor we use is inserted into the exhaust stream via a standard oxygen sensor bung. For an accurate reading, the exhaust must not have any ambient air contaminating the reading. This leads us to the next thing on the list...

11.) O2 Sensor bung

The oxygen sensor used with our wideband controllers have a physically large probe. The hole for the O2 sensor MUST be opened up completely to accept the sensor. Also, PLEASE make sure we can remove your factory O2 sensor. Many times, O2 sensors get seized in the bung and are a pain to remove. So, if we have to take more time and a great deal more effort to remove your O2 sensor, you will be charged accordingly. Some newer vehicles do not require us to access any O2 bung (most 2016+ models have very accurate primary O2 sensors, which are used for closed loop operation all the time).

12.) Fuel level

Tuning your car requires the car to be running. For a car to run, it needs fuel. Before arriving for your appointment, be sure to have enough fuel for tuning. If you are planning on getting a race gas calibration, please bring it with you. If your vehicle is a newer direct injected vehicle that is going to be tuned with gasoline and ethanol blends, please arrive on 1/4-1/3 tank of gasoline, so there's enough room in the tank to blend upward to the target level with ethanol later in the session. Ethanol fuels are available across the street from our shop at the "Sheetz" station.

13.) Dump tubes / short exhaust

Most aftermarket turbocharged applications utilize an external wastegate. It is absolutely pertinent that you have a proper dump tube in place on the wastegate, and that it evacuates exhaust gas from the engine bay completely. Also, ensure that the outlet of the dump tube is pointing the opposite direction of the turbocharger inlet/air intake. The same principle applies for the actual downpipe/exhaust itself. All exhaust gas must exit the engine bay area, as to prevent ANY possibility of the engine ingesting. Having the exhaust exit at the edge of your oil pan, pointed AT it is a great way to not only superheat your oil, but also a great way to piss off your knock sensor on most newer vehicles. Failure to properly evacuate exhaust gas from the engine bay area may result in being sent home and your deposit lost.

14.) Couplers, clamps, and boost leaks

If you have a turbocharged/supercharged application being calibrated, please ensure the charge system will not blow a coupler off every other run. Time spent hunting down popped coupler connections is time lost towards your calibration. That being said, we advise everyone to build a boost leak tester and perform a leak test prior to your tuning appointment; they are easy to make, and will ensure you get the most out of your setup. This is absolutely pertinent on newer Honda/Acura vehicles that use a MAF sensor. Any leak after the MAF will result in incorrect load reporting to the ECU.

15.) MAP sensor selection, MAF housing sizing

Be sure to size your MAP sensor(s) accordingly to the planned boost levels you may be running. The stock Honda MAP sensors typically only read to 10psi (older vehicles) or 28psi (newer L15/K20C with Keihin ECUs). DO NOT PURCHASE A MAP SENSOR WITH NO BRAND NAME ON IT. These are junk, terrible junk. If you're going to use a sensor other than the stock Honda unit, purchase a Hondata or OmniPower MAP sensor. If your vehicle is MAF-based (most applications newer than 2016), please ensure the MAF housing is large enough to support your airflow demands/power goals. If you're unsure of what you might need, please e-mail for clarification.

16.) Make sure the car runs correctly

Ensure the engine starts and runs with all cylinders firing before your tuning appointment. Odd sounds, smells, etc are all a problem. We are happy to assist you remotely in advance to ensure no time is wasted the day of your session. Having an open conversation ahead of arriving here regarding the operation of the vehicle (which may involve the exchange of datalog recordings) will help ensure a smooth session in most cases.

17.) Basemaps

If you are using a user-end adjustable ECU, we can supply you with a starting calibration to get the car here for tuning. WE WILL ONLY SUPPLY THESE FILES WITH A SCHEDULED APPOINTMENT AND DEPOSIT ON FILE!

18.) Release Form

Before any work officially begins on your vehicle, you will be required to sign and date a release form. This form states that you understand the inherent risks in having your car dyno tested or calibrated, and wish to proceed, relieving all liability from the staff.

19.) Show up on time!

Your time is valuable, as is ours. Please arrive on-time to your tuning appointment. All scheduled appointments require a $400 non-refundable deposit to book. This $400 goes towards your total, provided you show up for your scheduled appointment. Deposit may be transferred to another date ONCE, and must be done so at least 24 hours before the originally-scheduled slot. No-shows will have the deposit absorbed as a "missed appointment fee." The deposit is valid for six months from day of payment. No exceptions. If you are more than 15 minutes late for the start of your scheduled appointment, your deposit will be absorbed as a "late fee." At 30 minutes late, the session is considered "missed," the deposit is absorbed, and will require rescheduling.

20.) Spectator limit, shop rules

Spectators are not permitted in the dyno area. While we understand having your project dyno tested/calibrated is exciting, and you may have some friends interested in the process, we ask you limit your party to a maximum of two people total (you and one other person maximum). We have limited space, and the calibration service involves concentration, so the less distraction possible, the better. Smoking/"vaping" is prohibited in the vicinity of the shop. You're welcome to wait on the benches at the entrance, or to walk to Sheetz/Starbucks/Target if you'd like alternate entertainment for the duration of services. We typically have a live video feed available upon request as well, if you're interested in seeing the car on the dyno.